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Gents of Budapest

How to Choose a Haircut for Your Face Shape

Most disappointments in the barber’s chair start before the scissors do: a cut chosen from a photo that was born on an entirely different face. The good news is that a few ground rules dramatically improve your hit rate.

First: what is your face shape?

Stand in front of a mirror, brush your hair back, and look for the widest point of your face. If the jaw and forehead are roughly equal and the face is about as long as it is wide — square or round. If the face is noticeably longer than it is wide — long. If the forehead is wider and the face narrows towards the chin — heart-shaped. Oval is the lucky middle ground.

For round faces: height and edges

A round face wants a cut that adds height and draws edges: shorter sides with length on top, styled upwards — a quiff, a pompadour, a textured crop. What to avoid: uniformly short, rounded cuts that make the face rounder still.

For square faces: soften it or own it

A strong jawline plays two ways. Short sides and a clean, sharp cut lean into it — the classic, military look. Textured, slightly longer hair softens it. Both work; it is a matter of taste.

For long faces: width

Here it is the other way around: the goal is not height but balance. A little more length on the sides, a side-swept fringe or texture widens the face optically. Very tall, piled-up styles stretch it further — best avoided.

For oval faces: almost anything

The oval face is the least picky — nearly everything works, from an undercut to longer, slicked-back styles. Here your hair’s texture and your morning routine decide: how much time will you actually spend styling?

The best advice: ask your barber

The rules above are good starting points, but hair thickness, crowns and growth direction can override them. An experienced barber sees at a glance what will work — come in and let’s figure it out together.

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